Literally everything – from the popular Cos network to the premium brands Céline and Chopard – has recently included statement-earrings in its collections. Huge, uncomparable in color – they win a new generation of buyers.
Why do we like earrings “with a challenge”?
“What to wear for Selfie?”, Asks the BOF columnist, and immediately replies earrings. The last time such mega-accessories for the ears were in vogue in the 1980s. True, today the rules have changed. Earlier this jewelry was worn in combination with bright make-up and bizarre hairstyles. Today, girls wear simple over-shirt shirts and shabby jeans. There is a make-up, but it is not noticeable. As a result, earrings (or a single mono-serge) form an individual image for people who dress very simply. In the end, in Skype, only the upper part of the body is visible, and the lower one can be still in pajamas. For today’s girls statement- earrings mean the same as the shoes for Carrie Bradshaw from the series “Sex and the City.”
This trend, which was characteristic of jewelry only in the 1980s, was picked up today by “serious jewelers”, including well-known jewelry houses. Earrings have become larger, brighter, “sculpted” and longer than ever: some fall below the shoulder. They can be in the form of sculptures of screaming colors, different sizes, with different stones, fringed, strange shapes. Restrained diamond or pearl drops are no longer the same.
“I like that the statement-earrings have become mainstream – it’s so unusual for the jewelry industry. Usually, such things are shown on the podium, and after the Week of Fashion everyone is forgotten about them – people do not wear them, ” says Carol Woolton, editor of the jewelry department of British Vogue. “Topshop and H & M; Piaget and Chopard; Céline and Marni are literally all in big earrings. ”
“I feel a sense of completeness when I put them on, ” says Tilly McAllister-Smith, senior content director at Diane von Furstenberg and founder of the public-eye @earafterear, whose subject is just the staple certificate. ” It’s quite easy to get used to new earrings. This requires much less determination compared, for example, with the idea to repaint hair or buy a fabulous winter coat for thousands of dollars. Earrings are simply funny, and I think that people like this simple transforming effect of fashion. ”
Why do the statement earrings appeal to designers?
We observe that the very face of the jewelry industry is changing.
“Luxury jewelry brands are increasingly being influenced by fashion jewelry brands mass market segment. The price gap between them narrows, – says Patty Worth, the buyer of jewelry at MatchesFashion.com. “Earrings constitute a significant part of our range, and demand is growing.”
According to Patti Worth, the percentage of return of purchased earrings is much smaller compared to other commodity groups – as there are no problems with dimensions, fitting and planting, for example rings. Earrings can be an ideal gift. From season to season statement-earrings are becoming more and more unusual.
“Women are flirting with androgynous appearance – they wear short hairstyles, almost do not paint – and the earrings have actually become a new precious make-up,” says jeweler-designer Delphine Delettre. “I returned to the development of paired earrings after creating mono for many years. I like to wear one micro and one macro earring – that’s how I see earrings now. ”
Delettrez made a name for herself on mono-earrings worth $ 385 to $ 15,000, which were worn in front, but pierced the ear from behind, forming a semicircular structure behind the ear. “They had such success because they were almost invisible and very light,” explains the designer. “The earring resembles a piercing in the abdomen – this is a form that is understandable to my generation and, like an earring from the navel, you never remove the earring. You sleep with her and almost forget about her. ”
Statement loves silver
The business of Anna Jusbury, which she and her brother launched in 2013, is developing rapidly thanks to sculptured silver earrings – because they are lighter than gold and more large-scale and complex designs can be created from this material. “The most popular are single earrings,” she says of her jewelry, which is first created from clay and then cast in silver. Last year, her business grew by 100%, of which 60% is for earrings worth $ 370 to $ 1520. “Of course, wedding rings are in great demand, but to buy earrings, you do not need to know the size.” Therefore, most of its customers buy earrings online, which indicates a changing attitude towards buying jewelry.
Great too in the trend
Carol Woolton says that in the last years even great jewelry houses began to follow trends in their collections more. “Victoire de Castellan brought to the high jewelry art the sensuality characteristic of costume jewelry, and then just began to do everything she wanted,” she says of the creative director Christian Dior. “I recently noticed in Cannes a lot of staple earrings and long earrings on shoulders, especially from Chopard.”
In May, at the famous auction “Magnificent Jewels” from Sotheby’s in Geneva, a pair of color contrasting in color diamond earrings – blue 14.54 carats and pink 16 carat, was sold for a record $ 42.1 million and $ 15.3 million respectively and was purchased by the same buyer. “Sometimes they put stones in the frame just for a beautiful exposition, or they sell things separately,” notes Woolton. “But they sold them together to one buyer, and I like to think that he will continue to wear them together – a couple of $ 57 million stature item.”